Croquetas

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1. 1Step 1: Though these are classic ham croquetas, which are easily converted to cheese, feel free to substitute shredded cooked chicken, tuna, salt cod, shrimp, chorizo or anything else you might fancy; croquetas are a great vehicle for using up small amounts of leftover protein or vegetables – just make sure you don’t add anything too wet, and adjust the seasoning accordingly.
2. 2Step 2: If using ham, shred or finely dice it. Finely dice the leek, if using (you could substitute a small onion or shallot, if you prefer).
3. 3Step 3: Heat the oil and butter in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan on a moderate heat and, when the butter melts, add the diced leek and a pinch of salt, and fry gently for a minute, until just beginning to soften.
4. 4Step 4: Add about two-thirds of the ham to the pan, and carry on sauteeing until the leek is soft but not coloured. Turn down the heat slightly, stir in the flour a little at a time, and fry gently, stirring regularly, for a couple of minutes more. Meanwhile, grate the cheese if you’re using that instead of ham.
5. 5Step 5: Stir in the milk to make a smooth paste, then cook for about 15 minutes, stirring often, until the sauce is thickened to the consistency of gluey potato puree. Take off the heat, then stir in the cheese, if using; if not, add the remaining ham. Season to taste with black pepper and a little grated nutmeg; you may or may not want extra salt.
6. 6Step 6: Put the finished bechamel in a bowl, leave to cool slightly, then press some clingfilm snugly on to its surface to stop a skin forming. Leave to cool completely for at least two hours in the fridge, or until solid, though you can make this up to three days ahead of cooking.
7. 7Step 7: Crack the eggs into a shallow bowl and beat. Put the breadcrumbs and cheese in another shallow bowl, stirring to mix. Take a dessertspoonful of the bechamel mixture, which by this point should be fairly solid, and put it on a baking tray or plate. Repeat with the rest of the bechamel, then flour your hands and use them to roll all the spoonfuls into cylinders.
8. 8Step 8: Dip each croqueta in turn in the egg, shaking off any excess, then roll in the breadcrumb mix to coat. If you don’t want to fry them immediately, you can at this stage chill or freeze them – to do the latter, space them out on a tray, freeze solid, then decant into a box or bag. Defrost before frying.
9. 9Step 9: To cook, fill a deep pan a third full of oil and heat to 180C (it’s well worth investing in a digital thermometer; they’re inexpensive, and useful for everything from custard to meat), or use a deep-fat fryer. If you’re not serving each batch as soon as its ready, line a tray with kitchen paper and put it in a low oven.
10. 10Step 10: Once the oil is up to temperature, gently drop in four croquetas and fry until golden all over, turning them as necessary. Lift out with a slotted spoon, drain briefly on kitchen paper, then sprinkle lightly with salt and serve at once (or put in the low oven to keep warm while you repeat with the rest).