Chawanmushi

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1. 1Step 1: Gather all ingredients. Cool the dashi to room temperature or lukewarm; hot dashi will scramble the eggs.
2. 2Step 2: Crack and weigh 3 large eggs (50 g each w/o shell) in a measuring cup or bowl on a kitchen scale. Multiply the egg weight by 2.5 to determine the amount of dashi needed, then add it directly to the eggs. For example, 150 g eggs x 2.5 = 375 ml dashi (egg-to-dashi ratio of 1:2.5). To measure the dashi, tare the scale and pour the stock directly into the eggs.
3. 3Step 3: Add 1 tsp mirin, 1 tsp soy sauce, and ½ tsp Diamond Crystal kosher salt to the egg mixture. These measurements are based on an egg weight of 150 g—adjust the seasoning to match your egg weight. If available, use usukuchi soy sauce to keep the custard light in color.
4. 4Step 4: Whisk until the egg whites and yolks are fully combined.
5. 5Step 5: Strain the egg mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into another bowl to remove any unmixed egg whites or lumps for a silky, smooth custard.
6. 6Step 6: Cut 2 chicken tenders into ½-inch (1.3 cm) pieces. Place in a bowl, add 1 Tbsp sake, and marinate for 10 minutes.
7. 7Step 7: Cut 8 slices kamaboko (fish cake) thinly. Trim the roots from 1.8 oz shimeji mushrooms and separate them into small clusters.
8. 8Step 8: Loosely knot each stem of the 4 sprigs mitsuba (Japanese parsley). Alternatively, thinly slice the green onion if using instead.
9. 9Step 9: Place the chawanmushi cups in a large pot and add enough water to reach halfway up the sides. Remove the cups, cover the pot, and bring to a boil. Turn off the heat.
10. 10Step 10: Layer the chicken on the bottom of each cup, then add the shimeji mushrooms and ginkgo nuts (if using).
11. 11Step 11: Arrange kamaboko and mitsuba (or green onion) on top. Pour the egg mixture until each cup is 80% full, leaving the top ingredients partly visible. Skim any air bubbles from the surface with a spoon or skewer; air bubbles create a rough texture on the finished custard.
12. 12Step 12: Bring the pot of water back to a boil, then reduce to the lowest heat. Keep the water between 176–194ºF (80–90ºC) throughout steaming. Carefully lower the cups into the water, cover with their lids, and set the pot lid slightly ajar. Steam for 20 minutes, or 15 minutes if you omitted the chicken. Monitor closely—cup sizes and thickness affect cook time. Do not let the water boil, or the custard will turn rough and pitted instead of silky smooth.
13. 13Step 13: Test doneness by inserting a skewer into the center: clear liquid means it's ready. Tilt to confirm the custard is set throughout, then carefully lift the cups from the water (remove the lids first and use a hot plate gripper).
14. 14Step 14: Place the lids back on. Serve the chawanmushi hot or warm with a small spoon.
15. 15Step 15: Refrigerate leftovers in their cups for up to 2 days. To reheat, steam for 2 minutes until warmed through.