Kulebyaka

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1. 1Step 1: Thaw the pastry in its package in the refrigerator and keep it cold.
2. 2Step 2: For the filling, put the fish pieces in a single layer in a large (12-inch) skillet. Add the water, wine, and salt. Bring the liquid to a simmer over medium-low heat. After a minute or two, turn the fish over carefully and partially cover the skillet. Reduce the heat to low. Poach the fish for about 4 minutes in all, depending on its thickness, until it is just cooked. Slightly underdone is okay. Do not overcook. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the fish to a plate to cool. Pour the poaching liquid into a heatproof glass measure, measuring out 1-1/2 cups of liquid. If there is not enough, add more white wine.
3. 3Step 3: Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat in a heavy-bottom saucepan. Add the raw rice and cook in the hot butter, stirring constantly, for 3 minutes. Pour in the 1-1/2 cups of poaching liquid and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to very low, cover the pan tightly, and cook for 20 to 25 minutes, until all the liquid is absorbed. Set aside, uncovered, to cool; stir in the dill, parsley, and black pepper.
4. 4Step 4: While the rice is cooking, heat 3 tablespoons of butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter foam begins to subside, sauté the sliced mushrooms, tossing and turning them, until they are tender and very little liquid is left in the skillet, 5 to 6 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms to a bowl to cool.
5. 5Step 5: Melt 3 tablespoons of butter in the same skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter foam begins to subside, add the onion and sauté, stirring frequently, until soft and golden, about 5 to 7 minutes. Combine with the mushrooms.
6. 6Step 6: NOTE: At this point, all the ingredients can be used right away or refrigerated, covered, overnight.
7. 7Step 7: To assemble the kulebyaka, remove the chilled pastry dough from the refrigerator and let it sit, still wrapped, at room temperature for 30 minutes. (If you've refrigerated all the cooked ingredients overnight, remove them from the refrigerator, too.) Line a large rimmed baking sheet (18 x 12 inches) with a sheet of cooking parchment.
8. 8Step 8: Roll out one sheet of dough on a lightly floured surface, to form a rectangle measuring 8 x 16 inches, about 1/8-inch thick. Trim off the rough edges with a knife and save the dough scraps for decorating the kulebyaka. Roll up the dough over your rolling pin and unroll it onto the parchment-lined baking sheet. Sprinkle the breadcrumbs evenly over the dough, leaving a border of 1 inch uncovered around the edges. Whisk together the lemon juice and 2 tablespoons of melted butter.
9. 9Step 9: Spread half the rice in an even layer over the breadcrumbs, leaving uncovered that 1-inch margin along the edges of the dough. Drizzle some of the lemon-butter mixture over the rice. Add an even layer of half the mushrooms and onions on top of the rice. Drizzle with some of the lemon butter. Place the fish in an even layer on top of the mushrooms and onions, and drizzle with the remainder of the lemon butter. (If some of the fish pieces are very thick, slice them in half horizontally.) Slice the hard-boiled eggs crosswise and arrange a layer on top of the fish. Now reverse the order, adding a layer of the remaining mushrooms and onions, then finishing with a layer of rice. Lay a sheet of plastic wrap lengthwise over the filling and press firmly all along its length and sides to compact the layers together into a loaf shape with a rounded top. Remove the plastic wrap and brush the exposed rim of dough with the egg-milk glaze.
10. 10Step 10: Roll out the second pastry sheet to a rectangle measuring 10 x 18 inches, about 1/8-inch thick. Trim the edges with a knife and save the dough scraps. Roll up the dough over your rolling pin and unroll it over the filling. Press the top and bottom edges of the dough together well on each side of the kulebyaka, and seal the pie by crimping the dough with the tines of a fork or a pastry crimper, or by pleating them together with your finger.
11. 11Step 11: Cut a 1-inch-diameter hole in the center of the top crust (like the blowhole of a whale) to let the steam escape as the pie bakes. Roll out the dough scraps and cut them into decorative shapes of your choice (flowers, leaves, mushrooms, fish, etc.). Moisten the backsides with water and arrange the decorations on the top crust, pressing them gently to adhere. Refrigerate the unbaked kulebyaka for 20 minutes while you pre-heat the oven to 400° F with a rack adjusted to the lower middle position. Brush the entire surface of the top crust with the egg-milk glaze.
12. 12Step 12: Bake the kulebyaka for 50 to 60 minutes, until the pastry is a rich golden-brown. Turn the pan around about halfway through cooking to insure even browning. Let the kulebyaka cool on the pan for a few minutes, then carefully transfer it to a large serving platter. Serve hot or warm, using a serrated knife to cut it crosswise into 1 1/2-inch-thick slices.
13. 13Step 13: Serve accompanied by a green salad and dry white wine or ice-cold lemon vodka. Although Sharon doesn't say to do this, I like to put a bowl of crème fraiche or sour cream on the table for diners to spoon onto their portions of koulebyaka if they wish.