Stifado (Greek Beef Stew with Pearl Onions)

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1. 1Step 1: Pat the beef dry, spread it on a tray, and season with the salt and pepper. In a Dutch oven or another heavy-bottomed, nonreactive pot, heat the olive oil over high heat until shimmering. Add the beef in a single layer, working in batches to avoid crowding the pot. Cook, turning, until lightly browned on all sides, about 1 to 2 minutes per side. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the browned beef to a large bowl. Cover and set aside.
2. 2Step 2: Reduce the heat to medium and add the pearl onions directly to the pot, without thawing if frozen. Stir to coat in the oil, adding a dash more oil if needed. Cook until softened but not caramelized, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.
3. 3Step 3: Stir in the tomato paste, bay leaves, cinnamon stick, ground cloves, and allspice. Cook for 1 minute, then return the beef and its accumulated juices to the pot. Stir to coat with the spices.
4. 4Step 4: Pour in the red wine and cognac or brandy. Scrape the bottom with a wooden spoon to release the browned bits. Simmer for 5 minutes.
5. 5Step 5: Add the canned tomatoes, breaking up whole tomatoes with the back of a spoon, and enough warm water to cover the meat. Adjust the heat to medium or medium-low to maintain a slow simmer. Cover and cook until the beef is tender and the sauce is slightly thickened, about 1 hour 40 minutes to 2 hours, depending on the size of the beef pieces. Halfway through cooking, stir and check the liquid level. Add a little more hot water if needed.
6. 6Step 6: Taste and adjust the seasoning. Remove the bay leaves, cinnamon stick, and whole allspice berries, if using. Remove the pot from the heat and let the stew rest uncovered for 15 minutes. Serve warm over orzo, rice, or mashed potatoes, or with Greek oven fries.