Perfect Portuguese Feijoada

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1. 1Step 1: Soak the beans in plenty of cold water for at least eight hours, or overnight.
2. 2Step 2: Drain the beans and put them in a large pan or casserole.
3. 3Step 3: Cut one of the onions in half, then cut one half in half again, push a clove into each quarter-onion and put in the bean pan.
4. 4Step 4: Add the bay leaves and pork belly, then cover with cold water, season lightly with salt and bring to a boil.
5. 5Step 5: Skim, turn down the heat and simmer gently, keeping the pan topped up with water, until the beans are tender (softened but not falling apart).
6. 6Step 6: How long this takes will depend on the type and age of the beans, but reckon on at least an hour, and probably longer for butter beans, in particular.
7. 7Step 7: The pork doesn't need to be soft at this point.
8. 8Step 8: Dice the remaining onion and a half and cut the chorizo into chunks.
9. 9Step 9: If using cured morçela (ie, a hard cured blood sausage), cut that similarly (but if using black pudding, remove the skin, if necessary, then slice and set aside for now as you will cook that later).
10. 10Step 10: Put the oil in a wide pan on a medium-high heat, add the chouriço and morçela, if using, and saute until they begin to colour the oil.
11. 11Step 11: Carefully scoop out and set aside the fried sausages, leaving as much fat in the pan as possible, and turn down the heat to medium-low.
12. 12Step 12: Fry the onion, carrot and celery, if using, in the hot oil, until soft, then stir in the garlic and paprika and fry for another minute.
13. 13Step 13: Stir in the tomatoes, and fry until most of their liquid has evaporated.
14. 14Step 14: Once the beans are ready, drain them, retaining the cooking water but discarding the onion quarters and bay leaves.
15. 15Step 15: Add the beans and pork to the vegetable pan, then pour over enough bean liquor to cover (keep any excess for now) and bring to a simmer.
16. 16Step 16: Turn down the heat, partially cover the pan and leave to simmer gently, topping up with more bean liquor as necessary, until the pork is very tender.
17. 17Step 17: If you are using black pudding, now is the time to add it to the stew: poach gently for five minutes, then stir in the reserved fried chouriço (and morçela) and the cabbage, and cook for another few minutes, to wilt the cabbage.
18. 18Step 18: Taste for seasoning, then serve with rice or bread and drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil.