Scallion Pancakes

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1. 1Step 1: Place 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour and 1 teaspoon kosher salt in a large bowl and stir to combine. While stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or chopsticks, pour 3/4 cup boiling water over the flour mixture a little bit at a time. Continue stirring until combined.
2. 2Step 2: Add 2 tablespoons cool water onto the dry pockets of flour and knead the dough with your hands until a shaggy dough forms and the sides of the bowl are clean, 2 to 3 minutes. Knead in more cool water a teaspoon at a time as needed if it’s too dry.
3. 3Step 3: Transfer the dough onto a work surface. Knead until the dough is smooth, about 4 minutes. Drizzle a little vegetable oil onto your hands and use it to coat the dough ball. Return the dough to the same bowl it was kneaded in. Press a sheet of plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the dough and let rest at room temperature for at least 1 and up to 2 hours, or refrigerate for up to 24 hours. Make the roux and cut the scallions when the dough is almost ready.
4. 4Step 4: Place 1/2 cup all-purpose flour, 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, 1/4 teaspoon five-spice powder if using, and 1/4 teaspoon MSG if using, in a small heatproof bowl. Stir until evenly combined.
5. 5Step 5: Heat 1/4 cup melted lard, vegetable oil, or peanut oil in a small skillet over medium heat until 400ºF or a tiny bit of flour sprinkled in sizzles immediately. Pour the oil over the flour mixture and stir to combine until all the flour is hydrated and a paste is formed. Set aside to cool for a few minutes. If the roux solidifies, reheat in the skillet over medium heat until loose, or microwave in 15-second intervals until melted into a liquid paste.
6. 6Step 6: Trim and halve 1 1/2 medium bunches scallions lengthwise, then finely chop until you have 1 1/4 to 1 1/3 cups.
7. 7Step 7: Place 1 tablespoon of the neutral oil in a small bowl.
8. 8Step 8: Divide the dough into 4 portions (about 130 grams each) and form each portion into a smooth ball. Working with 1 piece of dough at a time (keep the remaining pieces covered with plastic wrap), place in the bowl of oil and flip to coat until covered with a thin layer of oil. Place on a work surface (do not flour) and roll out into a rough, very thin rectangle (about 11x12-inches) with a longer side closer to you. If the dough is cold and hard to roll out, let sit for a few minutes before trying again.
9. 9Step 9: Spread 1 1/2 tablespoons of the roux evenly over the dough with your fingers. Sprinkle evenly with a quarter of the scallions (about 1/3 cup). Starting at the long side closest to you, roll tightly up into a thick rope and firmly press down to seal the seam. Position seam-side up, then roll the rope into a coil, tucking the tail end underneath the coil. Firmly press down to flatten until about 3/4-inch thick and 3 1/2 inches wide.
10. 10Step 10: Repeat with the remaining dough balls, reserving the remaining oil in the bowl. Place on a plate or small baking sheet in a single layer. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for at least 1 hour at room temperature or up to 24 hours in the refrigerator.
11. 11Step 11: Place 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon Chinese black vinegar, 1 1/2 teaspoons chili oil if using, and 1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar in a small bowl and stir until the sugar is dissolved.
12. 12Step 12: Heat a large (at least 12-inch) cast iron or nonstick skillet over medium heat until hot, at least 3 minutes. Meanwhile, dip your hands in the reserved oil and coat each dough patty with a thin layer of oil. Roll out one of the patties on a work surface (do not flour) until 8-inches wide and about 1/4-inch thick.
13. 13Step 13: Add 2 tablespoons of the neutral oil to the heated skillet and heat until shimmering. Add the pancake, cover, and fry until the bottom is golden brown and crisp, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip the pancake and fry uncovered until the second side is golden brown and crisp (drizzle a little more oil around the edges if the pan is dry), 2 to 3 minutes more. Meanwhile, roll out the next pancake.
14. 14Step 14: Position 2 flat spatulas (or a spatula and chopsticks) vertically on opposite sides of the pancake in the skillet. Push the spatulas inward towards each other; this pushes the pancake up slightly to separate the flaky layers (it’s okay if it breaks apart a bit). Repeat pushing up the pancake in a few spots. Transfer to a wire rack (or place the rack on a baking sheet and keep warm in a 200ºF oven while you fry the remaining pancakes).
15. 15Step 15: Repeat cooking the remaining pancakes, using 2 tablespoons neutral oil for each pancake. Pat any excess oil on the pancakes with a paper towel if desired. Cut into wedges and serve with the dipping sauce.
16. 16Step 16: Stand mixer variation: To make the dough in a stand mixer, mix the flour and salt with the hook attachment until evenly combined. With the mixer on low speed, slowly drizzle in the boiling water, aiming for the dry pockets of flour, then slowly drizzle in the cool water and mix until a dough forms and the side of the bowl is clean. Continue to mix on low speed until the dough is smooth, about 4 minutes. Proceed with resting the dough.