Nihari (Pakistani Beef Stew)

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1. 1Step 1: Toss 10 green cardamom pods, 3 black cardamom pods, 3 black long pepper pods, 10 whole cloves, one 3"-long cinnamon stick, 1 star anise pod, ⅓ cup coriander seeds, ⅓ cup fennel seeds, 2 Tbsp. cumin seeds, 1 Tbsp. black cumin seeds, and 1 tsp. black peppercorns in a small bowl to combine.
2. 2Step 2: Heat a dry medium skillet over medium. Toast spice mixture, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add 4 Tbsp. Kashmiri chile powder, 2 Tbsp. cayenne pepper, 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and 1 tsp. ground turmeric and toast, stirring constantly, until combined and fragrant, about 10 seconds. Transfer spices back to bowl and let cool.
3. 3Step 3: Transfer spices to a spice mill or small blender and pulse to a fine powder.
4. 4Step 4: Do Ahead: Nihari masala can be made 2 months ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.
5. 5Step 5: Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 350°. Blend 2 heads of garlic, cloves separated, peeled, one 2" piece ginger, peeled, and 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a small blender until smooth. Set garlic paste aside. (Alternatively, you can blend in a tall container or measuring glass with an immersion blender.)
6. 6Step 6: Season 5 lb. English-style bone-in beef short ribs all over with 2 Tbsp Diamond Crystal or 1 Tbsp. plus ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt. Heat 3 Tbsp. ghee or vegetable oil in a large ovenproof Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high. Working in batches if needed, cook short ribs, meaty side down, until a deeply browned crust forms, about 6 minutes per batch. Transfer to a plate with tongs, leaving fat in pot.
7. 7Step 7: Cook 2 medium onions, thinly sliced, in same pot, stirring occasionally, until softened and golden, 10–12 minutes. Reduce heat to medium, add reserved garlic paste and cook, stirring often, until paste is beginning to stick to bottom of pot but not burning, about 4 minutes. Add 2 bay leaves and 3 Tbsp. nihari masala; cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute.
8. 8Step 8: Pour in 6–7 cups water (there is little risk of the pot running dry, and you can adjust the sauce consistency at the end, so no need to be exact here) and bring to a simmer, stirring and scraping up browned bits stuck to bottom of pot. Nestle short ribs back into pot and return liquid to a simmer. Cover pot, transfer to oven, and braise until meat is tender, and liquid is thickened, 2½–3 hours. If the braise seems too soupy for your liking, uncover and simmer until sauce thickens slightly, 20–30 minutes. You can also add a little more water to loosen if needed.
9. 9Step 9: Skim as much fat from surface as possible; discard. Ladle nihari among bowls and top with cilantro leaves with tender stems, thinly sliced serrano chile, thinly sliced ginger, and store-bought fried onions. Serve with toasted naan or country-style bread and lime wedges for squeezing over.